The harsh, musky scent associated with that era, which most likely came from adulterated or synthetic versions, has overshadowed the diverse traditional uses of pure patchouli that go back thousands of years as well as the important role it plays in the modern fragrance industry. Retailer Kai D, a purveyor of tools and clothing for artisans, says today’s customers are increasingly looking for small batch products made using tradition-tested recipes and natural ingredients like essential patchouli oil. “There’s a sense of ‘old is the new new’.” Along with tobacco, cedar and other essential oils, patchouli lends its scent and therapeutic qualities to Hudson Made’s Worker’s Soap.

The medicinal benefits of the leaves and the oil extracted from this bushy plant related to mint, sage, and lavender have long been known in Malaysia, China and Japan. Scientifically known as Pogostemon cablin, patchouli grows wild in the high altitude forests of Sumatra and Java but is widely cultivated throughout subtropical Asia. Patchouli has been used to treat a variety of skin and scalp irritations like eczema, chapped skin and dandruff as well as for headaches, muscle spasms, anxiety and depression. It’s an important ingredient in incense, which was used ceremonially and for ritual purification.

In addition to its topical use, patchouli has been utilized in the Far East for its restorative properties. In Ayurvedic texts patchouli is regarded as having a calming and anti-depressant effect and is believed to improve self-confidence, will power and mental clarity—uses which to this day persist in aromatherapy.

Unlike spices from Southeast Asia, which made their way to Europe much earlier via Arab traders, patchouli was not a major import until the late 18th century. As trade with the East expanded there was growing fascination with exotic and imported items like intricate Kashmir shawls. Silks, rugs and woven fabrics arrived in European ports baring a mysterious aroma that came to be a marker of authenticity. That scent also served a highly functional purpose.

Chinese and Indian traders who knew of patchouli’s insect repellant qualities, folded their precious fabrics with crushed patchouli leaves to keep moths away. When French garment manufacturers discovered the source of the exotic aroma, they began importing patchouli and using it to ensure that their own fabrics had the mystique necessary to be valued in the domestic marketplace. Eventually, the many wonderful qualities of the oil were discovered and its use in fragrance gained popularity in the late 1800s.

Grown on small forest plots by farmers who hand-pick and shade-dry the leaves, patchouli is sometimes fermented for several days to break down the cell walls and maximize the yield of oil. The leaves are then usually bundled and transported to distilleries where the oil is extracted by steam distillation. Aceh is one of the areas known to produce oil of a very high quality. Unknown to most of the world, Aceh was thrust into the news spotlight as a result of the devastating 2004 tsunami, when this Indonesian region was almost completely destroyed. Humanitarian efforts continue to help bring back the cultivation and industry of patchouli oil in the area.

Pure patchouli has an aroma somewhat reminiscent of wet earth—rich, sweet and woodsy. Its foresty character provides an excellent base for floral blends using geranium, lavender, rose or jasmine. It also pairs well with other woody oils like cedarwood or sandalwood, and its spiciness can be heightened with the addition of cinnamon or clove. Unlike many other essential oils, it improves with age, losing some of its harshness and developing a fruity wine-like top note.

Patchouli is also an excellent “fixative”—it slows down the evaporation of other more volatile oils, extending the life of their scents. Patchouli’s versatile profile and fixative characteristic make it a highly prized ingredient among today’s high-end perfumeries. Today, you’re just as likely to catch a whiff of patchouli on Fifth Avenue as you were in the head shops of the ‘60s and ‘70s.

Hudson Made: Worker’s Soap	The Working Man’s Dopp Kit	Double Shift Worker’s Soap Collection

When I was growing up I was mostly left to my own devices and identifying what I thought was ‘cool,’” says Michael Gilman, grooming advice expert and president of The Grooming Lounge. “I don’t even remember where I learned to shave—in fact, it wasn’t until we started The Grooming Lounge site and stores that I gained insight to shaving properly and eliminate shaving irritation.”

Sharing another experience on his grooming upbringing is Marke Bieschke, a culture journalist and publisher of the San Francisco Bay Guardian. “My father took inordinate pride in his appearance. I have super Norman Rockwell memories of him teaching me how to shave and the smells of his shaving cream and cologne,” Bieschke recalls. “Though I also have to credit my mother for introducing me to hair gel, mousse, and even several makeup techniques. I was allowed to indulge a lot in grooming experimentation, as long as I looked coherent in the end.”

Queens County, New York, circa 1915. “Shaving at Broad Channel.” Courtesy of Shorpy.

Often we forget the life lessons taught to us in elementary school. But Tim Kreider, cartoonist and contributor for The New York Times recollects his fifth-grade teacher gave a shaving lesson in class, “ostensibly as part of a speech unit, but it was also something he knew we prepubescent males would soon have to learn. It was a while before I would need the information, though, so by the time I needed to shave I’d pretty much forgotten his pointers.” Whether grooming styles and traits stem from the home or a crash course in elementary school, greater awareness has evolved with today’s modern man. Gilman notes, “it’s starting much earlier over the past 20 years, and I think the reason lies in increased acceptance (it’s become less taboo) along with the amplified showcasing in the media and movies. The coverage has set some ‘style goals’ for males.” However, it seems breaking down the barriers for guys to feel comfortable sharing tips and techniques is still not quite up to speed with today’s abundance of well-coiffed marketing. “Aside from the occasional ‘cool haircut’ or ‘I like the beard,’ it’s just not conversations men have openly unless it’s within the proper confines with experts in the field. They tend to chat more freely on the topic online or with their barber,” says Gilman.

Stuart Schuffman, known as Broke-Ass Stuart for his guides to living cheaply in San Francisco and New York City and host/co-creator of Young, Broke & Beautiful on the IFC network, shares, “I occasionally have grooming tip conversations amongst friends here and there, especially my gay friends, but it’s not that common. I think part of that is because some straight men have a much lower barrier in terms of how groomed they have to be to land an attractive woman.”

It also seems possible with the assortment of innovative and multifunctional grooming products available today; it could spark more conversations between males to share techniques. “I think there was a genuine flare-up of information exchanging when artisan beard oils and products became increasingly popular,” says Bieschke. “I’ve been a beard guy for about 20 years now, and it was a relief to suddenly have new options on the market. When my beard network lit up with all these product recommendations, it somehow felt more like a community, or even better—groommunity?”

Some men may feel like Kreider, who sums up grooming rituals up to a much more carefree ‘you get what you give’ mantra: “Men should probably try to think of grooming/clothing as like sports: like any other game, it’s composed of completely arbitrary, made-up rules, the first and most basic of which is that the game matters, which you just have to accept and believe if you care about winning it. On the other hand, the only way not to turn into a sore winner/loser about it is to keep in the back of your mind, as a sort of ballast, the knowledge that it’s trivial and not important at all.”

Photo Courtesy of the Library of Congress Photo Archive

If I ever felt swindled about missing out on grooming tips in my youth, I can make up for it now with the abundance of information available now through social media and sites like The Art of Manliness. As we graduate from Shaving 101, to mastering degrees in grey hair (or loss thereof), my panel of experts has carefully curated a few rules of thumb every guy should know:

• “Don’t clean your face with the same bar of soap you just cleaned your rear end with. Also, bald is always better than balding. If your hair is 90% gone, just take it all off.”—Michael Gilman, The Grooming Lounge
• “Don’t try too hard. You want to have a look—not A LOOK.”—Marke Bieschke, The San Francisco Guardian
• “Pay attention to what the gay guys are doing. Whatever they are rocking now will be what the hip straight guys are rocking in two years.”—Broke Ass Stuart
• “Just brush your teeth, shave every day and quit worrying about a lot of complicated expensive extremities (let alone body-building, hair-replacement, and penis-enlargement scams).”—Tim Kreider, The New York Times

From self-taught survivors, to those who’ve received wisdom passed down from tradition, we’ve all earned a badge of honor in taking care of ourselves as we see fit. It’s something that will always tie us together, whether you willingly participate in the ‘groomunity’ or not.

Looking to amp up your grooming ritual? Visit Hudson Made’s grooming collection.
 

The Beard Shave Soap Trio	The Well Worn Traveler	Workers Soap

Dale Pimentel is a fashion copywriter at Levi.com, and a residing native of San Francisco. He grew up as a hip-hop/backup dancer, with a degree in SF nightlife, and has more sneakers than one could fit in a NY-sized studio.

During the Revolutionary War, the British Navy cracked down on the thriving ports located on the northeast coast, virtually shutting them down by attacking and destroying whaling and shipping fleets. For their business to survive, many merchants relocated to Canada or France and some even returned to England, choosing commerce over the Constitution. A group of sea-faring Quakers from Nantucket and Providence got together and decided to look for a safer place to set up shop closer by. Enter Claverack Landing, a tiny Dutch settlement founded in 1783 on the Hudson River. At the time, Claverack was equipped with two deep bays, land suitable for a port and nearby farmland. The group, calling themselves The Proprietors, bought up huge areas of land and drew up a grid for the town they would rename Hudson in honor of the river and its first western explorer, Henry Hudson who sailed the Halve Maen upriver in 1609.

The city of Hudson was one of America’s first planned cities… they built it and they did come. Ship-builders, sail- and rope- makers, and a host of other shipping related businesses sprung up and soon populated the meticulously drawn out streets. The whaling fleets grew and by 1790 the population hit 2,500. By 1820 it had doubled again. When kerosene replaced whale oil and trains replaced ships, Hudson fell into decline. The last whaling ship sailed from Hudson in 1840, but soon enough trade by railroad brought new businesses to Hudson; tanneries, brickyards, ironworks, cotton mills and breweries flourished. The 1920s and ‘30s saw a rise in gambling and bootlegging and St. Agatha (a statue of the patron saint of virgins looks down the Hudson from its perch on Parade Hill) notwithstanding, Hudson became known for its red light district. A state police crackdown in 1950 brought that underworld economy to an end and the city of Hudson entered another period of neglect and decline.

Throughout all the commercial boom and bust of the past two centuries, Hudson, continued to line its streets with a succession of American architectural styles from the New England Federal style the Quakers brought with them, to Greek and Gothic Revivals, Queen Anne, Colonial Revival and Jacobean. For this reason, Hudson is known as a “dictionary of American architectural styles.” A silver lining to the decades Hudson was under-appreciated. In the first decades of the 21st century, Hudson is proving its resilience with yet another economic revival. The main business thoroughfare, Warren Street, stretches two miles from the riverside promenade to Prospect Avenue and is now lined with an eclectic selection of galleries, antique shops, bookstores, restaurants and music venues. On nearby streets, 19th century hotels have been restored, factories have been converted into performance spaces and former blacksmith shops into restaurants featuring seasonal regional cuisine.

Visiting Hudson today you could close your eyes and forget you are in the middle of a mostly rural county; the city captures the thriving urban feel of a hundred years ago. True to its origins as a busy port trading in both locally made and exotic goods, you can shop the farmers market for fresh ginger stalks and Osage oranges, curried sauerkraut and hand cut potato chips, and honey from nearby apiaries. Or you can visit a nearby shop and buy teas imported from China or luxurious fabrics printed in India. There is a wonderful blend of preserving the past, honoring old traditions in new ways, and innovation born of respect for history and Hudson’s beautiful natural surroundings.

No one understands this better than Tim Dunleavy, storeowner and the founding president of the preservation society, Historic Hudson, which has been instrumental in leading the quest to preserve many of Hudson’s architectural gems. Dunleavy notes that part of what saved Hudson was that it was relatively untouched by the economic “development” of the 1970s. Dunleavy first visited Hudson in 1990 and was surprised to find a fairly intact 19th century city with an impressive abundance of architectural styles. At the time, most of the shops along Warren Street were boarded up. “The storefronts that weren’t empty had been rented or purchased by antique dealers.” Dunleavy recognized this as a sign of nascent economic revitalization. “A similar thing happened in Connecticut in the 1970s when so many antique dealers opened businesses on Route 7.”

Dunleavy opened Rural Residence in 1999. The store is filled with a beautifully curated selection of antiques, art books, linens, toiletries and decorative items; “anything that I have an emotional response to that has a dash of historicism or sense of time,” says Dunleavy. In addition to its interesting architecture, Dunleavy thinks Hudson’s intimate size and walkability have been a big draw. “It feels like a convergence center for the creative class and like-minded people,” he says. “There are 35 new businesses that have opened this year in Hudson. The new hipster migration from Brooklyn has given the city a new youthful energy and appearance.”

Store front of the Rural Residence in Hudson, NY

On their brand new website, Rural Residence draws inspiration from the valley, acknowledging that the Hudson was a river that shaped a nation and “pollinated [it] with a never-before-seen hybrid of nature, cultivated beauty and democratic ideals.” The city of Hudson, can most certainly be seen as a jewel in that crown.

Rather than taking their business elsewhere, two hundred years ago a small group of merchants decided to stay in their young country and seek out a place to build a peaceful and thriving city. I like to think of them surveying the land and envisioning a community of builders, farmers, bakers and craftspeople all taking pride in their work and engaged in the wonderful business of life.  I like to think that if they visited Hudson today, they would be proud.

Experience Hudson:

• Musica — a community music shop.
• Fern — handcrafted furniture.
• Look — apparel and accessories.
• Discipline Park — hand picked designer clothes and vintage.
• Gris — antiques and interior design.
• Hudson City Books — used and rare bookstore.

Taste Hudson:

• Fish and Game — weekly changing menu located in a converted historic blacksmith shop.
• Grazin’ — farm-to-table diner.
• Swoon Kitchenbar — brasserie.
• Verdigris Tea — tea and chocolate bar.

Creative Hudson:

• Basilica — reclaimed 19^th century factory converted into an art, performance, production and event space.
• The Spotty Dog — independent bookstore and lounge/café.
• Helsinki Hudson — Two performance spaces, a full service restaurant, a gallery space and outdoor dining.

Bring a bit of the Hudson Valley into your home with these locally made products:

Tea Towel Set	Scullery Soap	Black Patriot Head

Photo Credit: Lisa Kelsey 

Lisa Kelsey is a Dutchess County, NY-based art director. Her radio shows “Stirring the Pot” on home cooking, and “Spice: The Final Frontier” on herbs and spices, can be heard on Pawling Public radio. pawlingpublicradio.org

Source: The Orchid Boutique

If what you wear says volumes about you, then how you port it ‘on the go’ can make an equally strong statement. A trunk is a large, structured heavy duty piece meant for the largest of hauls. Many luxury fashion companies made names for themselves crafting trunks for luxury travel. Louis Vuitton started in 1854 and by the end of the 1800s its signature check and LV monogram prints had been born to stave off imitators. While Goyard, started in 1792, is the oldest of the great Parisian trunk makers and still crafts customized luggage for the French elite. When ships were the main form of transportation, trunks were the obvious way to go.

A duffel bag, named after Duffel, Belgium where the particular canvas originally used originated, is a barrel-shaped bag with shoulder straps. It is still usually made of canvas (or sometimes nylon) for ease of care and transport in any weather. Duffels took off in 1950s surfer sub-culture, even taking on a certain “in-the-know” status symbol. Now ubiquitous, every man should at least once in his life toss a few things in a duffel for a quick, impromptu escape. The carefully curated options available on Hudson Made (from San Francisco-based Joshu+Vela) make a great grab and go.

If your travel plans necessitate more than toiletries and a quick change of clothes, a weekender is the perfect choice. Named for the amount of stuff you can carry in its small frame, the weekender is a more structured option for a weekend away. For an even more substantial option, a traditional suitcase is the most popular choice for its ideal build and convenience. Modern designs feature perks such as dividers, expansion panels and wheels. Gracie Opulanza, co-founder of online magazine Men Style Fashion, offers up one other option you may not think of: “Foldable bags are the way forward for maximum storage. I always find you end up buying another bag whilst travelling hence your foldable one can be stored away.” Now that’s packing smart.

Once you’ve committed to your luggage of choice (as well as a travel companion) what do you put in it? The key is versatility. Pack a wardrobe of easy T-shirts, sweaters and pants that can all work double duty and be layered. And never underestimate the need for a light jacket to pull it all together and weather the elements. I’m also a big fan of setting a clothing color story ahead of time. Pick up to three colors to add to black or khaki basics and weave a story with your wardrobe. Nothing is sharper, for instance, than a navy, brown and white vacation wardrobe. But how do you narrow down the selections from your closet?

Your best bet according to Australian GQ: “Be selective. Get together all the clothes you anticipate you’ll need for your trip and lay them out. Then put half of them back.” That’s a new riff on Coco Chanel’s famous ‘take one thing off’ rule. And when it comes to shoes, Travel + Leisure also believes in a less is more mentality: “Shoes are one of the heavier items you will have in your bag so give lots of thought to taking too many. Choose a pair that can be worn in a variety of situations. Along with the one you are wearing, you’ll have enough.” Finally, pack a stylish hat, as Men Style Fashion reminds us “a hat is a great way to cover the scruffy look once you’ve landed.” That’s using your head!

“The Art of Packing” from Louis Vuitton

But it’s not just clothes that make the well traveled man. You’ll need a collection of toiletries to keep yourself looking your best on the go. In fact, traveling comes with its own set of skin issues you’ll need to consider. Flying, for instance is extra hard on your skin with the drying cabin air. Make sure travel lotions are extra moisturizing. Australian GQ also suggests double-bagging your liquids in a TSA-approved plastic baggie inside your kit. “Put any liquids—moisturizer, sunscreen and the like—in plastic zip-lock bags to avoid them leaking through the rest of your luggage. Then place your toiletries bag at the top of your case to avoid putting extra pressure on it during the flight.”

And while most tech-savvy travelers may find themselves burrowed in their smartphones, consider bringing a notebook instead. I jot down stores, restaurants and bars I particularly like and meal ideas I will foolishly try to recreate later. I also allow myself to do the kind of free flow writing I never have the time to do in my everyday life.

And while a notebook is nice, don’t forget the last minute essentials: charging cords, power adaptors for foreign countries, passport and, of course, toothbrush. Slip them in and then slip off to your fantasy destination.

Once you’ve picked a bag and packed it with your get-out-of-town outfits and necessities, well, you’re ready to be that well-traveled man on the go. After all, a great piece of luggage is just the first step in a long lifetime love affair for travel. My vintage luggage collection is part of the romance of my world travels, this great marriage of man and his wanderlust. Every time I see one of those suitcases I think of where I’ve been and the world I have yet to explore and I’m ready to fall in love all over again. Bon voyage.

Black XL Boat Tote	Canvas Leather Dopp Kit	Navy Waxed Canvas Leather duffle

Mac Smith is a New York City based fashion writer who has never met a cat, coat or cake he didn’t love. itcantallbedior.blogspot.com twitter: @itcantallbedior

Essential oils, known simply as the extracted oils from plants, roots, or bark are “essential” in the sense that they carry a distinctive scent, or essence, of the plant. The Egyptians were some of the first people to use aromatic essential oils extensively in medical practice, beauty treatment, food preparation and religious ceremonies. At one point in time, the value of some oils was considered equivalent in exchange for gold. French chemist and founder of aromatherapy, Rene-Maurice Gattefosse rediscovered the powerful healing properties of essential oils by using pure lavender oil to help heal his hand that was burned from an accident at his family’s cosmetics laboratory. Today, the use of essential oils continues to grow rapidly, as numerous health and wellness benefits continue to be discovered.

“The Egyptians were some of the first people to use aromatic essential oils extensively in medical practice, beauty treatment, food preparation and religious ceremonies.” (source: Wikipedia)

From the “Mark Ronson’s Scent Manifesto”interview in GQ to “Your Favorite Fall Scents have Major Health Benefits” on the Huffington Post, the increasing popularity has caused individuals to question the ingredients in their scented products. One major debate surrounds the topic of natural versus synthetic components. Sandy Maine, an expert in artisanal product development and manufacturing explains, “Two major differences are the aesthetics and health benefits. Being that essential oils derive from natural resources, they are more in tune with us as humans and instantly spark nostalgia of nature. Synthetics have similar qualities, but contain attributes that may not be as healthy or good for us. The natural characteristics are often broken down and stripped away, resulting in a lack of aromatic benefits.” She also states, “Natural oils also have higher healing properties such as skin preservation and anti-bacterial treatments, along with anxiety and stress relief.”

Synthetically produced scents maybe compare on the surface to their natural counterparts. They are often more cost-effective for manufacturers, which results in greater attainability for the consumer. But in this case, you get what you pay for. Unlike essential oils, synthetics are not as sustainable or biodegradable for the environment. Maine notes, “Essential oils require growing and harvesting the materials, (without machinery), and precise timing for distillation. The amount of essential oil from raw materials also extracts in small quantities, so it requires farm labor and more land for manufacturing.” With this type of “hands-on” product lifespan, there are key ingredients that synthetics will likely never replicate—heart and soul.

Many essential oils are used for aroma-therapeutic healing; however it’s important to understand the correct application process to avoid potential allergic reactions. Through precise distillation techniques and blending of proper base oils, Hudson Made has crafted a collection of soaps that encompasses multi-functional skin-treatments and is curated with the finest essential oils from natural resources. Made by hand, each batch produces about three hundred bars and requires careful manipulation of the essential oils and saponification using a 3-foot-long maple spoon that turns these well-guarded recipes into into hardened bars.

The “Indigo Escape Dopp Kit Set,” which features Hudson Made’s exclusive Original White Beard & Shave Soap

Hudson Made’s Beard and Shave Soap is not only for bearded gents who want excellent shaving lather and facial hair conditioner, but works equally well as a daily face wash. The three scents each possess their own unique blend of essential oils, which have rooted characteristics often used in aromatherapy:

• Original White—petitgrain and cedarwood play well together in producing a fresh woody aroma with benefits known for overcoming anxiety, depression and emotional stress. Juniper oil adds a hint of pine needle for an added nurturing effect, with black pepper and myrrh oil blending together for a rich, spicy aroma.

• Cedar Clove—cedar leaf oil, mixed with allspice and clove powder give this a soap a powerfully spicy aroma with warm and comforting therapeutic benefits, and a hint of cinnamon adding in a dose of tingly rejuvenation.

• Citron Neroli—bergamot, white grapefruit and citron neroli oil are complementary ingredients in producing sweet-citrusy and lemon aromas, with a subtle floral accent—known for uplifting, and invigorating effects in aromatherapy. Jojoba (often used for massage therapy and healing dry damaged skin) and vetiver (an earthy scent similar to patchouli) add lively, earthy, aromas.

Hudson Made also has also launched several uniquely blended hand soaps crafted specifically for hardworking hands that deserve proper cleansing and replenishment. Whether on or off duty, the Workers Soap—coconut, jojoba, hempseed and vitamin E oils gets the job done in forming a hearty lather to nourish and moisturize the skin. The rich, earthy aromas of tobacco oil and patchouli mixed with cedar come together for a leathery, rugged scent without overpowering the senses. The combination has aroma-therapeutic benefits known for tranquilizing, soothing and anti-anxiety effects—perfect after a long day’s work.

The newest addition to the line, Scullery Soap has taken the heritage of true-to-tradition functionality and blended it with some of the highest quality essential oils available today, leaving skin feeling smooth and supple. Avocado oil, white beeswax and rose geranium oil not only make a wonderfully fragrant aromatic cocktail, but also all work to achieve skin healing and preservation. Lime and litsea oil both add in a lemony astringency for a refreshing scrub after a day in the kitchen.

As small batch American-made products continue to gain momentum, recognizing the value in responsibly sourced ingredients and manufacturing processes are also gaining awareness. The use of essential oils, with all of their restorative and complex properties, is part of a new paradigm in consumers’ pursuit of clean living. And if while lathering up you find yourself bursting into nostalgic song or reflecting on that beautiful vacation retreat—that’s OK, too. Just stop and smell the roses. (Or cedar wood.)

Beard & Shave Soap Trio	Workers Soap	Scullery Soap

Dale Pimentel is a fashion copywriter at Levi.com, and a residing native of San Francisco. He grew up as a hip-hop/backup dancer, with a degree in SF nightlife, and has more sneakers than one could fit in a studio apartment.

–William S. Burroughs, The Western Lands

It’s not every day that a large company producing a widely-used good will choose quality over cost. But that’s exactly what Faribault Woolen Mill does, and it’s thanks to them that the American wool industry maintains a special value in an age of mass production, cheap labor and imports. That’s because the survival of an industry, it turns out, depends on those who are willing to uphold its standards. “It’s the understanding of the whole process, from the origin of the materials and the knowledge and the relationship that the business has with the community that’s essential to us giving meaning and relevance to the craft,” says Alice Bernardo, documentarian of traditional craftsmanship,

Faribault Woolen Mill Co. in its early days. Courtesy of the Minnesota Historical Society

As with any family heirloom, American made wool blankets from the Faribault Mill are a connection to the past. Operating since 1865, the mill was responsible for producing huge amounts of wool products for soldiers and travelers back in the pioneer days. When the U.S. entered World War I, Faribault provided 100,000 olive drab army blankets to the military. By 1937, they’d made a name for themselves as one of the largest and highest quality mills, with inventory at almost every major department store. Though the number of woolen mills that existed from 1886 dropped from 800 to 80 by 1920, Faribault was able to survive, a testament to their commitment and recognizable quality product.

Military men packing blankets and other important inventory. (Image Source: Flickr)

When I am at home with the dogs and we’re curling up with our after-dinner treats (whiskey for me, bones for them) for a movie, a beautiful wool blanket is exactly what completes the scene. At camp, when the woodsy air slips down to a chilling 30 degrees, nothing keeps me warmer than a genuine wool blanket originally designed for military bombers to avoid hypothermia from the freezing night temperatures. The incomparable difference between genuine wool and a polyester knit is how warm it actually keeps you.

But a hand woven blanket does more than just make life more comfortable on the couch and around the campfire. It’s something you can keep. It will carry stories. It will stay in the family, the same way an heirloom quilt does. You don’t touch a $20 polar fleece from the nearest superstore and think “somebody made this by hand” or “I’m supporting a 150-year-old company that still uses traditional craftsmanship” or even “this blanket is nice.” Instead, you get a blended fiber that carries the stink of petroleum, the wayward stitch of a cheap machine and the memory of an underpaid worker. These blankets will pill, stain and unravel while supporting cheap labor overseas, perpetuating the industry of throwaway goods.

To embrace the forthcoming winter months, the desire to revive American production and the continuation of one of the oldest manufacturing entities in the nation, Hudson Made offers a wide selection of gorgeous wool blankets from the Faribault Woolen Mill in Minnesota: cozy, woven proof that it’s possible to leave one of the most sacred, valuable and cherished American-made industries intact.

Check out our wide selection of Faribault blankets and other accessories here.

Buffalo Plaid Fringe Wool Throw - Heather Red/Black	Foot Soldier Military Wool Blanket- Navy Cream	The Stadium Set

Cass Daubenspeck is a culture and lifestyle writer based in Brooklyn. She lives for good coffee, good whiskey, and a rainy Sunday morning. She interviews people about their weekend routines at sundayroutine.com.Twitter: @missprotestalot

In spite of its simplicity, the bandana is that rare fashion hybrid—an item that’s as stylish and classic as it is utilitarian. Image courtesy of stylist/blogger Francis Kenneth Anunciacion, photo by Sylvia G Photography.

Like a lot of styles Madonna has adopted through the years, the pop icon did not invent the bandana, but reimagined it in a way that was both modern and relevant. Kerchiefs, the forefather of bandanas, can be traced to the French aristocracy. The plebian class couldn’t afford the fine, white silks that the upper class enjoyed. They wanted a more work-friendly accessory and the dark, printed cotton scarf emerged. The adoption of the bandana was both a necessity and an act of rebellion against the bourgeois. Other European countries soon followed suit and the bandana was on a roll. No matter where the bandana turned up, from the beginning it was a symbol of the proud, workingman—even if some of these men worked on the wrong side of the law. Pirates who plundered gold- filled Spanish galleons off the Caribbean Sea soon introduced bandanas to the New World.

Portrait of a cowboy by Charles D. Kirkland, circa 1880. Image source: Denver Public Library Digital Collections.

It wasn’t just criminals that knew the benefits of a good bandana. Outdoor laborers, such as farmers, railroad workers and cowboys wore them around the neck to wipe the sweat off their faces and keep dust out of their collars. Miners and factory workers concealed their mouths with bandanas to lessen the dust and fumes they inhaled. These cotton scarves were far more practical than the standard white hanky. The saturated colors and patterns hid stains more effectively and made them more durable. This proved useful to soldiers who took advantage of the bandana’s versatility to keep their own sweat and opponent’s blood out of their eyes. On the battlefield, a bandana could be used as a tourniquet for the wounded.

The history of the bandana is inextricably linked with the history of workers. Here, a riveter wears a bandana on her head while posing atop the wing of a WWII bomber at the Burbank, CA Lockheed Aircraft Corp. factory. Image credit: Life Photo Archives, circa 1942.

Beyond practical purpose, the bandana found a new role during the Revolutionary War: propaganda and promotion. Martha Washington used a printed bandana as a huge political “f*ck you” to the British who put a ban on textile printing in the colonies. Going one step further, Washington wouldn’t dare display any old print. She met with John Hewson, a printmaker friend of Benjamin Franklin in Philadelphia, to craft a cotton creation for her husband to use for political purposes. He returned with an image of canons, flags and George Washington on horseback. This very image was then used as propaganda in the war and when the British were defeated, as a commemorative souvenir. A new design was manufactured upon George Washington’s death. Because of the first lady’s keen fashion statement, the political bandana was born. Since then many historical milestones (world wars, the walk on the moon, the fall of the Berlin Wall, etc.) have had their own commemorative bandanas.

At left, the John Hewson-designed bandana commissioned by Martha Washington during the Revolutionary War, depicting the first president on horseback (image credit: New York Historical Society). At right, a commemorative bandana created upon George Washington’s death in 1799 (image credit: 1812 War & Piecing).

Bandanas also emerged as social identifiers. In the 1970s, the gay community adopted a “hanky code.” The colored bandanas indicated one’s orientation and sexual preferences without drawing unwanted attention from the rest of the world. Continuing bandanas connection to anti-authority, gang members in the 80s also appropriated bandanas as communication tools. This time the colors referenced loyalty to one gang or another: red meant Bloods; blue meant Crips.

A classic paisley bandana pattern.

From the streets of Los Angeles to Hollywood’s glitz and glamour, Madonna isn’t the only pop culture personality that has put the bandana front and center. Other recording artists have showcased the piece either by flaunting or rebelling against its deep-seated roots in the working class. Some have embraced its working class connotations, like Bruce Springsteen, who proudly claimed he was “Born in the USA.” Joan Jett personified rocker chick extreme by wearing a solid neck bandana on her album cover “I Love Rock ‘n’ Roll.” Axl Rose’s L.A. bad boy swagger couldn’t have been complete unless he, too, held back his hair with his signature bandana headscarf. Jennifer Lopez, during her Puff Daddy phase, delivered her dual image of ‘Jenny from the Block’ / DIVA with a blinged out bandana neatly knotted behind her ears.

From the coal mines of France and our country’s first ‘first lady’ to today’s cultural icons, the bandana has firmly secured its place as part of America’s fashion history. It continues to be pragmatic and versatile. And to paraphrase Madonna, who inspired my own personal bandana phase, it makes the people come together.

Patriot with Panache	Bandana	The Well-Worn Traveler

Mac Smith is a New York City based fashion writer who has never met a cat, coat or cake he didn’t love. itcantallbedior.blogspot.com twitter: @itcantallbedior

If Mark Twain was correct, then the high school version of me—donned in a mandatory cheap polyester apron, polo shirt and shapeless pants—knew my place. And it wasn’t at the top of the fashion food chain. I was working for a major bagel store (back when bagels were a thing) and the aforementioned outfit not only shielded me from continuous cream cheese assault but also from the world. This was my first foray wearing a uniform and my last. As a young guy with a burgeoning interest in fashion, design and textiles, I made a pact then and there I would never wear a uniform again. And while I’ve kept good on that day’s promise, I’ve opened my eyes to the world of workwear and its intrinsic chic, minimalist style. I’m not alone. The whole world of fashion is smitten with the clean lines and classic functionality of workwear. Some of my favorite designers reference workwear season after season while editors, stylists and bloggers have latched on to the ease and laidback luxury of pieces that were built to move.

A factory worker at the Paragon Rubber Co. plant in Mount Holyoke, Massachusetts. Photograph by Lewis Hine, 1936; image courtesy of the U.S. National Archives.

Not a whole lot has been written about the evolution of workwear. I thought the Internet would be abuzz since workwear has captured the hearts of street style denizens, but I did discover an informative book, Workwear: Work, Fashion, Seduction by Olivier Saillard and Oliviero Toscani (Mode, 2009). This is a comprehensive look at workwear’s impact throughout fashion history, its present prominence and its place as the uniform of the future. In between the impassioned words are striking photos of classic jackets, gloves and even gas masks as well as the fashion editorials and runway collections that have embraced and exaggerated the innate style of these items over the years.

Coal miners in Birmingham, Alabama, 1937. Photograph by Arthur Rothstein; image courtesy of Library of Congress.

Workwear originated in the professions of the earth such as farmers, coal miners, butchers, etc. where the need for a strong and resilient uniform emerged. These pieces had to perform just as hard as those who wore them and were never mistaken for stuffy and showy banker suits and office shirts. Workwear designs were durable and made of unfeigned fabrics like denim, waxed canvas and flannel. These materials were both more versatile and more affordable for the working class and allowed the everyman to get the job done.

The Levi’s Two Horse Logo was first branded onto the leather patch of the 501® jeans in 1886. The purpose of the graphic was to tout the strength of Levi’s pants. Image credit: Levi’s Facebook page.

Workwear is instinctively part of the American cultural anthropology. Big names in the field come from the USA including: Carhartt, established in 1889 in Dearborn, Michigan; Levi’s, originally created in San Francisco in 1853; and Red Wing shoes, named for the town in Minnesota where it was founded in 1905. At first workwear was purely agricultural in nature. During and following the Industrial Revolution and urbanization, people left the fields for the factories and railroads and workwear evolved to offer protection, breathability and comfort to these journeymen.

Alongside Levi’s and Carhartt to name a few, Red Wing shoes is a brand whose status as a long-standing, storied American company has cemented it as an important force in contemporary workwear fashion. Image credit: Clément.

Over time, these brands have seamlessly melded into modern, mainstream fashion, where they are more popular than ever. Workwear has experienced a surprising resurgence with young artists and urban dwellers who are attracted to the minimalist designs. Mainstream consumers have re-discovered workwear as the pendulum swings back toward quality construction over disposable, fast fashion. “Made in America” is also a major selling point. New artisans have crafted a niche in workwear and styles influenced by classic uniforms. Brands such as Joshu+Vela and J.L. Lawson & Co have firm roots in workwear but with forward vision and design. The Hudson Made Worker’s Apron also offers utility, relevance and practicality in the face of any job.

The Hudson Made Worker’s Apron, with its heavy-duty canvas and buckskin leather straps, is well suited for any manner of work—be it in an artist studio, a carpentry worskhop, or a kitchen.

Yet workwear has romanced high fashion as well. The techniques and craftsmanship have leapt from the fields and factories to the runway. And like many things in high fashion, Chanel is to blame. Coco Chanel famously chose comfort over constriction bringing chambrays and wide leg pants, styles associated with working hands, to the upper echelon post-World War I. In 1939, Chanel’s main competitor, Elsa Schiaparelli, also embraced workwear with a stylized overall. Designed in heavy midnight blue wool and proudly showcasing an exposed zipper that divided the overalls along the whole of the garment, Schiaparelli called it the Tenue d’Abri (translation: shelter suit). Schiaparelli cheekily stated that this was her suggestion for women looking for a rugged yet elegant one-piece to rapidly don before taking refuge in an air strike cellar during World War II. Mid-century saw denim, sweats and undershirts become de rigeur with Hollywood embracing the looks of the working class.

In the 1980s high end designers like Ralph Lauren started romanticizing the American worker and the iconography associated like trains, industrial equipment and farms. Lauren’s love affair with workear continued with his Spring 2012 menswear collection— a modern interpretation of Americana featuring rugged coated canvas, leather, cable knits and denim pieces. Rei Kawakubo, creative director of Comme des Garcons, has also shown many collections devoted to the work aesthetic, including the nouveau interpretation of railroad and chain gang stripes for Fall 2013.

The Spring/Summer 2012 collection for RRL was heavily influenced by workwear. Image source: Aspects of Cool.

But no designer truly fell in love with the construction and legacy of workwear like Yohji Yamamoto. Workwear: Work, Fashion, Seduction describes his introduction to the genre through the photographs of August Sanders who captured farmers and workers in their everyday garb. Yamamoto instantly was enamored with the patina on the workers garments and how the history of their experiences shined through their uniforms. It’s not just their form and structure, but the way time leaves its indelible mark on the pieces. In his spring 2003 collection, Yamamoto showed a series of six overalls, each increasing with grandeur and routine. This was a love letter to the rudimentary clothing that has taken over his thoughts. According to Style.com, Yamamoto’s fall 2013 collection features a series of “stripped-down black looks that were actually far from simple—complex, technical cutting prevailed in this workwear-inflected section, as it did throughout.”

Where is workwear headed next? The possibilities are as endless as the allure. A new generation steeped in urban and skate culture has appropriated workwear as its own, identifying with its social origins and blank canvas for interpretation. And really that’s always been the appeal: workwear reimagined in a way that is both modern and also pays homage to its utilitarian roots. I just hope it doesn’t involve bagels with cream cheese.

Discover these workwear-inspired products at Hudson Made:

Bourbon Worker’s Apron	Worker’s Soap	Canvas & Leather Dopp Kit

Mac Smith is a New York City based fashion writer who has never met a cat, coat or cake he didn’t love.

Coney Island in April. Image credit: Flickr user Kai Brinker.

And early spring is off-season. When I arrived on a cloudy afternoon in April, even Nathan’s Hot Dogs was closed for remodeling, making the boardwalk appear especially desolate. But I wasn’t here for corn dogs. On this particular day, I was visiting for one special souvenir: a bottle of seawater.

Filling an empty seltzer bottle with seawater is more difficult than one expects in the icy Atlantic. As I waded out, a wave caught me off guard, filling my galoshes with frigid water. I was inspired to wade through the surf after coming across Hudson Made’s Bay of Fundy Sea Salt, and I suddenly wondered where salt came from in the first place.

Prior to colonization, the primary source of salt for Native Americans was from the fish in their diets. In this engraving by Theodor de Bry, circa 1590, Native American men cook fish on a wooden frame. Image credit: Library of Congress.

Once Europeans arrived, salted fish (particularly cod) was one of the major exports of the colonists back to England. In order to supply the salting process, salt was imported via the British from the Caribbean. Although salt works (places where salt was crystallized from boiled seawater) were established in New England in the 1600s, they didn’t produce nearly enough salt for the colonist’s demands. When the Revolutionary War started, it really put the squeeze on—the British used blockades to make certain no salt entered American ports. The pressure inspired local businessmen to build wooden salt evaporators—large shallow trays that exposed saltwater to sunlight—around Cape Cod beginning in the 1770s. The results were meager at first, but by the 1830s they were producing over 350,000 bushels of salt and supplying most of America.

Men at the Onondaga, NY salt works raking salt from solar evaporation vats. They are working on rolling roofs of a design copied from the Cape Cod salt works. Photograph circa 1890. Image credit: Onondaga County Salt Museum, Liverpool, NY.

But evaporating salt from seawater consumed a lot of time and resources: it took 350 gallons of Cape Cod seawater to produce about 80 pounds of salt. When the Erie Canal opened in 1825, it put Cape Cod out of business. This feat of engineering created a waterway that connected New York harbor to Lake Erie, opening up the Midwest to trade. It allowed salt to be imported from Syracuse, where it was evaporated from super saline springs flowing up from huge, underground salt deposits. By the middle of the 19th century, salt was transported from enormous salt mines in Ohio and Michigan.

A pile of Coney Island sea salt. Image credit: Sarah Lohman.

New York is still one of the largest salt producers in the world, producing from mines upstate, as well as by evaporation from saline springs, like Morton’s facility in Silver Springs.

After spending so much time contemplating where salt comes from, I was curious to try to produce my own salt. So I took off for my favorite—if slightly polluted—beach. When I returned to my apartment with my precious Coney Island cargo, I strained the seawater through a coffee filter to remove large impurities like sand. Then, I poured the water into a glass baking dish placed over my stove top burner, and boiled the liquid until about 90 percent had evaporated, which took approximately 45 minutes. What was left went into a 250º oven for about an hour.

And then—I kid you not—I had salt. Big, beautiful crystals along the bottom and sides of the pan. Although I knew it was science, it seemed like magic. A half-liter of liquid yielded approximately two tablespoons of salt. Will I be using it to top my salted caramel sundae or to encrust my grass-fed steak? Absolutely not—do you have any idea what they dump in the waters around New York City? But I did take a tiny taste. The verdict? Bitter and slightly metallic. I’d stick with salt from the icy, clean Bay of Fundy.

The Bay of Fundy. Image credit: Flickr user Michael Sprague.

In addition to being a great seasoning, the Bay of Fundy Sea Salt can be combined with honey and olive oil to make an effective body scrub. Read about how to make The Hudson Honey Salt Scrub in this past issue of our newsletter and shop for the components below:

Bay of Fundy Sea Salt	Lucky Star Honey	Marmalade Spoon

Sarah Lohman is a historic gastronomist. You can follow her adventures at fourpoundsflour.com.

When I was a girl growing up in California, whales fascinated me. It was the 1970s, the heyday of Greenpeace and knowing whales existed is inseparably entwined in my mind with the knowledge that these majestic creatures were being hunted to extinction. As soon as I could, I went to work for Greenpeace selling “Save the Whale” bumper stickers door to door. Since then, many species have rebounded and have been snatched from the jaws of oblivion. What does this have to do with your favorite summer tomato? Stick with me.

Most people are aware that the extinction of animals is still a threat throughout the world but according to a study published by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, we have also lost an astounding 75 percent of our plant species since 1900. The advent of industrial agriculture has had a substantial impact. To save on cost and labor, vast single-crop fields are planted in the same place year after year, and genetically identical hybrids have been developed for higher yield and resistance to pests. This efficiency has come at a great cost.

“How to Grow Flowers and Seeds,” a handbook published by Rockford Seed Farms in 1918. At right, a spread with information on the cultivation of tobacco, turnips, and wonderberries.

As large corporations have gained control of seed production, the industrial hybrids have increasingly crowded out many of the local varieties farmers used to grow on their land. A 1903 seed catalog lists 400 varieties of pea — compare that to Burpee (a seed catalog in existence since 1881), which now lists 22. Our grandparents’ tables were laden with a selection of fruits and vegetables they grew themselves or that local farmers had success with, many would have been particular to their region. The U.N. report also reveals a staggering statistic about the lack of diversity in our eating habits: a whopping 60 percent of the calories obtained from plants for human consumption come from just three crops: rice, corn, and wheat.

A tiny seed that produces a quirky variety of tomato may not seem as glamorous as a California condor or grey whale, but we should be every bit as concerned about its disappearance. These seeds that have been passed down for generations are called “heirloom” seeds for a good reason — they are extremely valuable.

The rise of large single-crop fields in modern agriculture has resulted in a fall in the biodiversity of plant species. Image credit: flickr user JSmith Photo.

Throughout most of human history, seed saving helped maintain farms and gardens. With a kind of human-assisted natural selection, the seeds from the best tasting and producing plants were saved and replanted, developing more and more dependable crops each year while weak varieties were bred out. The seeds were open-pollinated. In other words, the plants were pollinated by nature itself: birds, wind, and insects. They were genetically diverse because pollination between individual plants was not controlled. That’s a good thing, because as seeds are planted year after year they adapt to local conditions and become more resistant to pests. Unlike hybrid seeds, under the right conditions these open-pollinated seeds remain true-to-type, meaning they produce the same recognizable product year after year.

These seeds traveled along with the huge diaspora of people as they moved from place to place in search of a better life, or sadly, with those who were forced to relocate. Immigrants often brought seeds with them even if they weren’t farmers because they provided the perfect little cultural package — small, portable, durable — a link back home and a promise of future sustenance.

For variety alone, it would be sad to lose the heirloom seeds that our ancestors labored to pass down throughout the generations. Think of a cheese plate. When you put together a cheese platter, you try to include a variety of textures and flavors, an aged cheese like a Comté, a soft one like the luscious Brillat-Savarin, and an earthy blue Stilton. You wouldn’t want a platter that consisted of only commercially produced cheese like sliced American.

Barry Estabrook, author of “Tomatoland: How Modern Industrial Agriculture Destroyed Our Most Alluring Fruit,” sees great value in growing heirlooms to create independence from corporate seed companies and maintain varieties. More than 100 heirloom tomato varieties are currently being grown and analyzed at the University of Florida in an attempt to breed taste back into industrial tomatoes. “If no one would have saved those seeds, the genes that create those tastes would have been lost,” says Estabrook.

But there are many more reasons why we should be concerned with loss of diversity in the food supply. With the disappearance of these harvested plants, we also lose the culinary traditions associated with them. Collateral endangerment of animals that are a part of their ecosystem is lost as well. There is evidence that those vast fields of genetically identical crops, called monocultures, are a contributing factor of “colony collapse disorder” which is currently plaguing the honeybee. Recent studies have shown the bees are not able to get adequate nutrition from the drastically reduced diversity of plant life available to them. The more genetically diverse our food supply is, the safer it is. Monoculture agriculture leaves entire crops vulnerable to being wiped out. The blight that caused the infamous potato famine was present in other European countries, but it had a much more devastating effect on Ireland because unlike elsewhere, their crops consisted almost entirely of a single variety of potato, the Irish Lumper. Also raising an alarm is the fact that multi-national companies are increasingly monopolizing control of seed — and don’t even get me started on GMOs (genetically modified organisms).

Seedlings beginning to grow in the hoop house at The Hudson Valley Seed Library. Image credit: Hudson Valley Seed Library.

Seed Savers Exchange, a non-profit organization that maintains thousands of heirloom varieties, originated with the simple gift of seeds: Grandpa Ott’s morning glory and a tomato called German Pink. The seeds were brought from Germany by the founder’s great grandfather in the 1870s. Seed Savers Exchange and a rapidly growing number of other seed companies and nonprofits are working to preserve and share America’s endangered heirloom seeds and plants. Many seed saving organizations have a strong regional focus, like The Hudson Valley Seed Library, which sells seeds and starters native to the Northeast and also gives tours and classes on gardening and seed saving.

A collection of Rooftop Ready Seeds.

Even city dwellers are getting in on the action. Zach Pickens of Rooftop Ready Seeds is nurturing plants that will grow well in another challenging climate, urban rooftop gardens. Zach began growing and processing his seeds simply as a way to save money but soon noticed another benefit. “As time went on, I realized some of my crops grew better and better every year… because I was selecting seed from the crops that grew the best in my particular climate — a very unique one, on a roof, in containers, in high wind and extreme sun exposure.” Not all of Pickens’ seeds are classified as heirlooms, but his plants will be the heirlooms of the future, hoping that his seeds will help urban gardens continue to thrive and grow. “The more people that have success in their gardens, the more will replant next year and grow their gardens bigger.”

Yellow and green heirloom squash. Image credit: flickr user Lawrence Farmers Market.

A Google image search of “heirloom squash” yields an eye-dazzling spectrum of colors — carroty orange, sunny yellow, dusky green. Textures and patterns abound from stripes and speckles to snaky or star-shaped. Nature seemingly has no limit to its playful production of form, shaping an endless array of different combinations. The sheer abundance appeals to my artistic sensibility in the same way the many different kinds of seashells delighted me as a child. And like the child I was, as an adult (and a gardener) I want to collect them all. I can plant, harvest, and cook some of these plants, saving seeds from my best producers to replant next year. And when I do, I will be contributing directly to their survival. And that gives me a much better feeling than selling bumper stickers. Not that there’s anything wrong with that.