The harsh, musky scent associated with that era, which most likely came from adulterated or synthetic versions, has overshadowed the diverse traditional uses of pure patchouli that go back thousands of years as well as the important role it plays in the modern fragrance industry. Retailer Kai D, a purveyor of tools and clothing for artisans, says today’s customers are increasingly looking for small batch products made using tradition-tested recipes and natural ingredients like essential patchouli oil. “There’s a sense of ‘old is the new new’.” Along with tobacco, cedar and other essential oils, patchouli lends its scent and therapeutic qualities to Hudson Made’s Worker’s Soap.

The medicinal benefits of the leaves and the oil extracted from this bushy plant related to mint, sage, and lavender have long been known in Malaysia, China and Japan. Scientifically known as Pogostemon cablin, patchouli grows wild in the high altitude forests of Sumatra and Java but is widely cultivated throughout subtropical Asia. Patchouli has been used to treat a variety of skin and scalp irritations like eczema, chapped skin and dandruff as well as for headaches, muscle spasms, anxiety and depression. It’s an important ingredient in incense, which was used ceremonially and for ritual purification.

In addition to its topical use, patchouli has been utilized in the Far East for its restorative properties. In Ayurvedic texts patchouli is regarded as having a calming and anti-depressant effect and is believed to improve self-confidence, will power and mental clarity—uses which to this day persist in aromatherapy.

Unlike spices from Southeast Asia, which made their way to Europe much earlier via Arab traders, patchouli was not a major import until the late 18th century. As trade with the East expanded there was growing fascination with exotic and imported items like intricate Kashmir shawls. Silks, rugs and woven fabrics arrived in European ports baring a mysterious aroma that came to be a marker of authenticity. That scent also served a highly functional purpose.

Chinese and Indian traders who knew of patchouli’s insect repellant qualities, folded their precious fabrics with crushed patchouli leaves to keep moths away. When French garment manufacturers discovered the source of the exotic aroma, they began importing patchouli and using it to ensure that their own fabrics had the mystique necessary to be valued in the domestic marketplace. Eventually, the many wonderful qualities of the oil were discovered and its use in fragrance gained popularity in the late 1800s.

Grown on small forest plots by farmers who hand-pick and shade-dry the leaves, patchouli is sometimes fermented for several days to break down the cell walls and maximize the yield of oil. The leaves are then usually bundled and transported to distilleries where the oil is extracted by steam distillation. Aceh is one of the areas known to produce oil of a very high quality. Unknown to most of the world, Aceh was thrust into the news spotlight as a result of the devastating 2004 tsunami, when this Indonesian region was almost completely destroyed. Humanitarian efforts continue to help bring back the cultivation and industry of patchouli oil in the area.

Pure patchouli has an aroma somewhat reminiscent of wet earth—rich, sweet and woodsy. Its foresty character provides an excellent base for floral blends using geranium, lavender, rose or jasmine. It also pairs well with other woody oils like cedarwood or sandalwood, and its spiciness can be heightened with the addition of cinnamon or clove. Unlike many other essential oils, it improves with age, losing some of its harshness and developing a fruity wine-like top note.

Patchouli is also an excellent “fixative”—it slows down the evaporation of other more volatile oils, extending the life of their scents. Patchouli’s versatile profile and fixative characteristic make it a highly prized ingredient among today’s high-end perfumeries. Today, you’re just as likely to catch a whiff of patchouli on Fifth Avenue as you were in the head shops of the ‘60s and ‘70s.

Hudson Made: Worker’s Soap	The Working Man’s Dopp Kit	Double Shift Worker’s Soap Collection

Konrad von Limpurg as a knight being armed by his lady in the Codex Manesse, courtesy of Wikipedia

Originating as idealistic code of conduct during the Middle Ages, thuggish warriors in the north of France were developed into refined knights in shining armor. The desired outcome exemplified virtues of gallant honor, courtly love and courtesy. Acquiring the strength and skills to protect the weak and defenseless wasn’t such a bad idea, either. This chivalrous code of conduct later inspired writers, artists, and philosophers to be quicker with their word than the sword. Noble gestures from speaking respectfully to exercising common generosity set the standard for mannerisms beyond the knight’s initial code of protection. My how things have changed. If the Knights of the Round Table sat across from us today, they’d likely chop off our fingers for allowing smart-devices to distract us during a meal.

George Hahn, founder and editor of the men’s lifestyle site George Hahn.com, is dedicated to keeping up your style without breaking the bank. As a keen observer on today’s style and etiquette, he shares, “I was born in the 70s where middle class wages weren’t going anywhere and mothers began going to work in order to help contribute. Certain things like learning to shave, do laundry etc. more or less fell away because both mom and dad were not home. I would hypothesize that chivalry sort of fell away at that time for my generation.”

Photo courtesy of Tumblr

In the southern part of the country is Texas native Chris Brown, founder and curator of Refueled Magazine, a lifestyle brand devoted to American heritage, community and craftsmanship. Brown feels southern hospitality is still alive and well, stating, “As a Southerner, I believe chivalry is still very present. Women deserve to be loved and treated well, but then again, I’m sort of old fashioned. I don’t feel it’s changed too much over the years—it’s a courteous gesture to anyone, really.”

Left: George Hahn of georgehahn.com, Right: Chris Brown of Refueled Magazine

Although chivalry’s presence may be spotty, one’s location may play an important factor in both action and reaction to classic gestures of good will.

“Living in Manhattan where some people can be a bit self absorbed, ‘or too busy,’ I’ve occasionally noticed poor behavior like not holding the door for someone or pulling the chair out—or even moving out of the way in a crowded elevator to let someone out,” says Hahn. “We tend to lean on our smart-phone devices too heavily and can be lazy in regards to courting someone. With the social/dating apps available today, people seem to have forgotten how to flirt—a wink or poke doesn’t count.”

Along with a blurred behavioral code of conduct, personal courtesies such as grooming habits follow suit. To shave or not to shave is up to the individual, (though one’s significant other’s opinion could weigh in). Either way, Askmen.com says, “As long as there are clear distinguishing lines between key follicular patches (read: beard to chest), you’re good.”

Scents can also play an intricate role in pursuing (or keeping) a mate. Hahn states, “To be blunt, don’t wreak!  Whether it’s body order or exercising restraint in cologne and fragrances.  No one two feet away from you should be able to smell you.”

If you struggle with the two-spray minimum, there are other options for grooming scents and techniques found favorable for the laws of attraction. Using products that contain essential oils, known for calming, relaxing and even evoking nostalgia in one another have been known to spark and keep our mates attention. Brown admits, “I have a full beard, and with that comes a certain responsibility not only to yourself, but to others—especially your wife or partner. I maintain my beard with products that happen to have ingredients such as cedar, almond oil, grape seed and pine needle. My wife loves to snuggle up in it; but I believe that’s because the scent not only reminds her of her favorite forest, but using proper beard products keep it soft.”

Photo courtesy of Ancestry.com

There’s no question that chivalry’s existence today is subjective, but ultimately has taken on a different form. In order to keep today’s interpretation fluent, Brown admits he’d like to see men get creative within their environment, “my hope is men will continue to open that door, pull out the chair, but also do something like plant your significant other an herb garden or cook a great meal.”

Along with creativity, Hahn feels men should not be afraid about putting in the extra effort. He states,” be the guy who takes the time and thought into sending thank you notes. Seeing a handwritten note is so extinct these days… and sending flowers is still a nice gesture. That’s how you should treat people today. It’s worth it because you want to end the day right with yourself.”

Beard And Shave Soap Trio	Jao Brand: Beard Scent	Hudson Made: Walnut Kitchen Board

When I was growing up I was mostly left to my own devices and identifying what I thought was ‘cool,’” says Michael Gilman, grooming advice expert and president of The Grooming Lounge. “I don’t even remember where I learned to shave—in fact, it wasn’t until we started The Grooming Lounge site and stores that I gained insight to shaving properly and eliminate shaving irritation.”

Sharing another experience on his grooming upbringing is Marke Bieschke, a culture journalist and publisher of the San Francisco Bay Guardian. “My father took inordinate pride in his appearance. I have super Norman Rockwell memories of him teaching me how to shave and the smells of his shaving cream and cologne,” Bieschke recalls. “Though I also have to credit my mother for introducing me to hair gel, mousse, and even several makeup techniques. I was allowed to indulge a lot in grooming experimentation, as long as I looked coherent in the end.”

Queens County, New York, circa 1915. “Shaving at Broad Channel.” Courtesy of Shorpy.

Often we forget the life lessons taught to us in elementary school. But Tim Kreider, cartoonist and contributor for The New York Times recollects his fifth-grade teacher gave a shaving lesson in class, “ostensibly as part of a speech unit, but it was also something he knew we prepubescent males would soon have to learn. It was a while before I would need the information, though, so by the time I needed to shave I’d pretty much forgotten his pointers.” Whether grooming styles and traits stem from the home or a crash course in elementary school, greater awareness has evolved with today’s modern man. Gilman notes, “it’s starting much earlier over the past 20 years, and I think the reason lies in increased acceptance (it’s become less taboo) along with the amplified showcasing in the media and movies. The coverage has set some ‘style goals’ for males.” However, it seems breaking down the barriers for guys to feel comfortable sharing tips and techniques is still not quite up to speed with today’s abundance of well-coiffed marketing. “Aside from the occasional ‘cool haircut’ or ‘I like the beard,’ it’s just not conversations men have openly unless it’s within the proper confines with experts in the field. They tend to chat more freely on the topic online or with their barber,” says Gilman.

Stuart Schuffman, known as Broke-Ass Stuart for his guides to living cheaply in San Francisco and New York City and host/co-creator of Young, Broke & Beautiful on the IFC network, shares, “I occasionally have grooming tip conversations amongst friends here and there, especially my gay friends, but it’s not that common. I think part of that is because some straight men have a much lower barrier in terms of how groomed they have to be to land an attractive woman.”

It also seems possible with the assortment of innovative and multifunctional grooming products available today; it could spark more conversations between males to share techniques. “I think there was a genuine flare-up of information exchanging when artisan beard oils and products became increasingly popular,” says Bieschke. “I’ve been a beard guy for about 20 years now, and it was a relief to suddenly have new options on the market. When my beard network lit up with all these product recommendations, it somehow felt more like a community, or even better—groommunity?”

Some men may feel like Kreider, who sums up grooming rituals up to a much more carefree ‘you get what you give’ mantra: “Men should probably try to think of grooming/clothing as like sports: like any other game, it’s composed of completely arbitrary, made-up rules, the first and most basic of which is that the game matters, which you just have to accept and believe if you care about winning it. On the other hand, the only way not to turn into a sore winner/loser about it is to keep in the back of your mind, as a sort of ballast, the knowledge that it’s trivial and not important at all.”

Photo Courtesy of the Library of Congress Photo Archive

If I ever felt swindled about missing out on grooming tips in my youth, I can make up for it now with the abundance of information available now through social media and sites like The Art of Manliness. As we graduate from Shaving 101, to mastering degrees in grey hair (or loss thereof), my panel of experts has carefully curated a few rules of thumb every guy should know:

• “Don’t clean your face with the same bar of soap you just cleaned your rear end with. Also, bald is always better than balding. If your hair is 90% gone, just take it all off.”—Michael Gilman, The Grooming Lounge
• “Don’t try too hard. You want to have a look—not A LOOK.”—Marke Bieschke, The San Francisco Guardian
• “Pay attention to what the gay guys are doing. Whatever they are rocking now will be what the hip straight guys are rocking in two years.”—Broke Ass Stuart
• “Just brush your teeth, shave every day and quit worrying about a lot of complicated expensive extremities (let alone body-building, hair-replacement, and penis-enlargement scams).”—Tim Kreider, The New York Times

From self-taught survivors, to those who’ve received wisdom passed down from tradition, we’ve all earned a badge of honor in taking care of ourselves as we see fit. It’s something that will always tie us together, whether you willingly participate in the ‘groomunity’ or not.

Looking to amp up your grooming ritual? Visit Hudson Made’s grooming collection.
 

The Beard Shave Soap Trio	The Well Worn Traveler	Workers Soap

Dale Pimentel is a fashion copywriter at Levi.com, and a residing native of San Francisco. He grew up as a hip-hop/backup dancer, with a degree in SF nightlife, and has more sneakers than one could fit in a NY-sized studio.

Essential oils, known simply as the extracted oils from plants, roots, or bark are “essential” in the sense that they carry a distinctive scent, or essence, of the plant. The Egyptians were some of the first people to use aromatic essential oils extensively in medical practice, beauty treatment, food preparation and religious ceremonies. At one point in time, the value of some oils was considered equivalent in exchange for gold. French chemist and founder of aromatherapy, Rene-Maurice Gattefosse rediscovered the powerful healing properties of essential oils by using pure lavender oil to help heal his hand that was burned from an accident at his family’s cosmetics laboratory. Today, the use of essential oils continues to grow rapidly, as numerous health and wellness benefits continue to be discovered.

“The Egyptians were some of the first people to use aromatic essential oils extensively in medical practice, beauty treatment, food preparation and religious ceremonies.” (source: Wikipedia)

From the “Mark Ronson’s Scent Manifesto”interview in GQ to “Your Favorite Fall Scents have Major Health Benefits” on the Huffington Post, the increasing popularity has caused individuals to question the ingredients in their scented products. One major debate surrounds the topic of natural versus synthetic components. Sandy Maine, an expert in artisanal product development and manufacturing explains, “Two major differences are the aesthetics and health benefits. Being that essential oils derive from natural resources, they are more in tune with us as humans and instantly spark nostalgia of nature. Synthetics have similar qualities, but contain attributes that may not be as healthy or good for us. The natural characteristics are often broken down and stripped away, resulting in a lack of aromatic benefits.” She also states, “Natural oils also have higher healing properties such as skin preservation and anti-bacterial treatments, along with anxiety and stress relief.”

Synthetically produced scents maybe compare on the surface to their natural counterparts. They are often more cost-effective for manufacturers, which results in greater attainability for the consumer. But in this case, you get what you pay for. Unlike essential oils, synthetics are not as sustainable or biodegradable for the environment. Maine notes, “Essential oils require growing and harvesting the materials, (without machinery), and precise timing for distillation. The amount of essential oil from raw materials also extracts in small quantities, so it requires farm labor and more land for manufacturing.” With this type of “hands-on” product lifespan, there are key ingredients that synthetics will likely never replicate—heart and soul.

Many essential oils are used for aroma-therapeutic healing; however it’s important to understand the correct application process to avoid potential allergic reactions. Through precise distillation techniques and blending of proper base oils, Hudson Made has crafted a collection of soaps that encompasses multi-functional skin-treatments and is curated with the finest essential oils from natural resources. Made by hand, each batch produces about three hundred bars and requires careful manipulation of the essential oils and saponification using a 3-foot-long maple spoon that turns these well-guarded recipes into into hardened bars.

The “Indigo Escape Dopp Kit Set,” which features Hudson Made’s exclusive Original White Beard & Shave Soap

Hudson Made’s Beard and Shave Soap is not only for bearded gents who want excellent shaving lather and facial hair conditioner, but works equally well as a daily face wash. The three scents each possess their own unique blend of essential oils, which have rooted characteristics often used in aromatherapy:

• Original White—petitgrain and cedarwood play well together in producing a fresh woody aroma with benefits known for overcoming anxiety, depression and emotional stress. Juniper oil adds a hint of pine needle for an added nurturing effect, with black pepper and myrrh oil blending together for a rich, spicy aroma.

• Cedar Clove—cedar leaf oil, mixed with allspice and clove powder give this a soap a powerfully spicy aroma with warm and comforting therapeutic benefits, and a hint of cinnamon adding in a dose of tingly rejuvenation.

• Citron Neroli—bergamot, white grapefruit and citron neroli oil are complementary ingredients in producing sweet-citrusy and lemon aromas, with a subtle floral accent—known for uplifting, and invigorating effects in aromatherapy. Jojoba (often used for massage therapy and healing dry damaged skin) and vetiver (an earthy scent similar to patchouli) add lively, earthy, aromas.

Hudson Made also has also launched several uniquely blended hand soaps crafted specifically for hardworking hands that deserve proper cleansing and replenishment. Whether on or off duty, the Workers Soap—coconut, jojoba, hempseed and vitamin E oils gets the job done in forming a hearty lather to nourish and moisturize the skin. The rich, earthy aromas of tobacco oil and patchouli mixed with cedar come together for a leathery, rugged scent without overpowering the senses. The combination has aroma-therapeutic benefits known for tranquilizing, soothing and anti-anxiety effects—perfect after a long day’s work.

The newest addition to the line, Scullery Soap has taken the heritage of true-to-tradition functionality and blended it with some of the highest quality essential oils available today, leaving skin feeling smooth and supple. Avocado oil, white beeswax and rose geranium oil not only make a wonderfully fragrant aromatic cocktail, but also all work to achieve skin healing and preservation. Lime and litsea oil both add in a lemony astringency for a refreshing scrub after a day in the kitchen.

As small batch American-made products continue to gain momentum, recognizing the value in responsibly sourced ingredients and manufacturing processes are also gaining awareness. The use of essential oils, with all of their restorative and complex properties, is part of a new paradigm in consumers’ pursuit of clean living. And if while lathering up you find yourself bursting into nostalgic song or reflecting on that beautiful vacation retreat—that’s OK, too. Just stop and smell the roses. (Or cedar wood.)

Beard & Shave Soap Trio	Workers Soap	Scullery Soap

Dale Pimentel is a fashion copywriter at Levi.com, and a residing native of San Francisco. He grew up as a hip-hop/backup dancer, with a degree in SF nightlife, and has more sneakers than one could fit in a studio apartment.

Full beards are decidedly back in fashion, and it’s not hard to see why. Shown here is Jason Kendig, one quarter of San Francisco-based house collective Honey Soundsystem. Image courtesy of Jason Kendig.

Beard appreciation has had a love/hate reputation dating as far back to ancient civilizations, where a beard was a sign of honor and only removed as a form of punishment. It wasn’t until approximately 345 B.C. when Alexander the Great decreed soldiers could not have beards, as they would be pulled in battle. During the Middle Ages, touching a man’s beard was a sign of disrespect and immediate grounds for a duel. By the late 1800s, Victorian men became extremely particular over their personal grooming and began utilizing shaving soaps and after-shave lotions to keep their facial hair well maintained. In the 19th century, our president “Honest Abe” Lincoln led by example, making beards even more popular for American men.

Today we find that men grow beards for a multitude of reasons. Growing facial hair can enhance your jaw line, or even help “mask” undesirable features. Some men also find it to be a liberating and more natural way of living. Others just enjoy the reactions they get, especially in relation to the laws of attraction.

An 1884 Beard Trimming Chart showcasing a variety of colorfully named Victorian-era beard styles, including the “Sage Brush,” “Stucco,” and “Patrician.” Image credit: Library of Congress.

In a study published in 2008 by Nick Neave and Kerry Shields, sixty women between the ages of 18 and 44 rated pictures of men with different levels of facial hair: the one with a heavy beard was labeled the most mature, masculine, and aggressive. The participants viewed a “light beard” as the most dominant and best for relationships—both long and short term. The “clean-shaven” images were the lowest in terms of dominance, attractiveness, masculinity, age, maturity, relationship desirability and aggression.

Regardless of whether you want to grow mutton chops, a Verdi or simple five-o’clock shadow, an abundance of bearded inspiration has inundated popular culture. Social media sites like Beards.org, The Love of Beards, Beardboard.com and The Bearded have thousands of followers and include message boards and images where users can boast their beards and trade grooming tips. Morgan Spurlock, director of Super Size Me, recently released a documentary, Mansome, showing the diverse ways modern men define masculinity, along with giving the world more exposure to bearded culture. The IFC television network also recently completed a second season of Whisker Wars, a docu-comedy set in the world of competitive facial hair growing.

Hollywood heavy-hitters are also contributing to this bearded renaissance, such as Hugh Jackman, George Clooney and Ryan Gosling, who were recently seen with their razors clearly put on hold as they walked the red carpet at this year’s BAFTA Awards in London. The NY Daily News also reports, “From the US to Europe, there is no question that the beard is back fuller than ever.” The proof could be seen at this month’s New York Fashion Week, where models for Ovadia & Sons, Mark McNairy New Amsterdam and Lucio Castro (among others) sported a range of fully coiffed facial hair.

Models for the Ovadia & Sons S/S ’14 New York fashion week show, along with those of other designers, walked the runway sporting beards of varying lengths and styles. Image source: Christopher Fenimore.

Facial hair may be more mainstream than we’ve ever seen, but some bearded gents report they still experience forms of discrimination, whether seeking new employment or just “inquisitive looks.” Eric Bandholz, founder of Beardbrand, a site devoted to beard culture and products (including Hudson Made’s Beard and Shave Soap, Beard Scent and Fort Greene Shave Oil and Beard Oil),  coined the term for today’s bearded renaissance man as an “Urban Beardsman,” defining a man who is into music, design, culture, and being unique. “Society occasionally still associates negative thoughts as is with any change, but no need to overanalyze it, be proud, keep on growing, and embrace your beardedness.”

There are also whiskered communities sprouting up all over the globe, and possibly in your town already (complete with competitive growing contests). From the online four-month beard growing competition on whiskerino.com, where you can earn the title of “King Beard,” to The Beard Team USA organization that lists how to compete and join your local chapter.

Regardless of the reasoning or amount of facial hair one can grow, there is a style out there for nearly every guy. Bandholz states, “For the guy wondering if a beard or facial hair is right for him, the answer is simple—give yourself at least two fair months of growth to determine what you have to work with. Grow out what you got, and if you can only do a mustache, go with that—there are plenty of variations you can play around with.”

At left, a barber uses scissors (not electric trimmers) to carefully trim a client’s beard at the Amsterdam shop BARBER (image courtesy of BARBER). At right, Eric Bandholz of Beardbrand (image courtesy of Eric Bandholz).

It’s important to note that a beard is not an excuse to stop grooming: if anything, it’s more important. To keep your beard from getting unruly, Bandholz says, “wash your beard every day or at least several times a week. Regular shampoo is not preferable as it can dry it out, so look for a product that caters strictly to facial hair.” He also says, “If you have a longer beard, use scissors versus an electric trimmer for more control and precision. Grow out the mustache if possible to better compliment the beard, and try to carve a line right above your Adam’s apple, (instead of following your jaw line—about three to four inches from the tip of your chin.”

Above all, it’s important to find products that work for your skin and don’t clog your pores, thus, causing acne breakouts by adding too much unnatural oil. Bandholz recommends a light beard oil to prevent dryness that won’t weigh the beard down. “The inevitable itchy phase will last about a week for new growers, but stick with it. And be sure to brush it daily with combs and brushes specifically for facial hair.”

With the beard remaining one of the most distinct symbols of masculinity, you owe it to yourself to sport a beard at least once during your lifetime—despite what stereotypes may follow. Just remind folks to not judge a face by its cover.

Care for your beard with these products from Hudson Made and browse our full grooming collection here.

The Beard & Shave Soap Trio	The Tartan Toiletry Kit	Fort Greene Shave Oil and Beard Oil

Dale Pimentel is a fashion copywriter at Levi.com, and a residing native of San Francisco. He grew up as a hip-hop/backup dancer, with a degree in SF nightlife, and has more sneakers than one could fit in a NY-sized studio.

Shaving, beard trimming, and even hairstyling have carried cultural meaning for men for centuries. Egyptian murals depict men with full beards, scraping their hair away in early times with crude items such as stone, flint and even clamshells. Men later began to shave their beards to avoid being grabbed in the face during battle. As shaving spread through the world, men of unshaven societies became known as “barbarians” meaning the “unbarbered.” Years later, the service for a shave became what we know today as barbering.

A cadet shaves in front a tent at West Point, circa 1913. Image credit: Library of Congress.

According to veteran barber Bobby Rutlledge, barbering was performed as far back as 296 B.C. in Rome, where men could get anything from a cut and shave to tooth extractions, but also provided a social forum for discussing daily news and political issues. The custom continues for people all over the world and we’re seeing resurgence in barbershops now more than ever.

In speaking with several experts and barbers across the globe, there is one thing that seems unanimous: men are showing a newfound appreciation for authenticity when it comes to grooming. Dr. Allan Peterkin, Dove Men+Care Face Range expert and author of several men’s grooming books including One Thousand Beards, states, “Modern men take care of their bodies and they now feel comfortable taking care of their faces. This means getting expert advice from their barbers and getting pampered from time with a straight-razor shave.” The barbershop is the only place exclusive to men where you can find this true, classic treatment. It’s tradition, not a trend.

BARBER in Amsterdam. Image courtesy of BARBER.

Greg Kristopik, a barber at The Belmont Barbershop in Chicago says, “Guys are seeing classic styles start to pop up again, from [TV] shows like Mad Men and Boardwalk Empire and [films like] The Great Gatsby—even Justin Timberlake has adopted a barber cut into his current style.” He also observes, “The older barbershops are being updated with younger, hipper guys who realize that their customers want affordable service, but more importantly, want to have some style.”

A classic American barbershop, circa early 1900s.

The art of barbering is not only trending in the United States. Shops have popped up throughout Great Britain and Europe and continue to gain momentum. Martjin Zijerveld, a barber at an Amsterdam shaving salon BARBER, mentions, “Facial hair and beards in general have made quite a comeback with younger men. It’s quite a trend in the fashion scene and part of the Rock ‘n’ Roll image often seen today. In the last year or so we’ve seen at least five or six new shops pop up in the area.” He also states, “you can have a corporate job now with tattoos and a beard, where in previous years, it wasn’t as easily accepted. Times have changed.”

A professional shave is possibly one the most self-pampering acts a man can indulge in. “Men are showing a large interest in straight razor or safety razor shaving,” states Kristopik. “Customers are asking where they can get these razors and how to go about it at home. It’s a way to take your time and really get a precise shave.” And with the resurgence of the barbershop experience, it’s only natural that new trends and techniques follow suit. In this digital age of social media—it’s that much easier to share and seek out styles for shaving techniques, which have surfaced on sites such as Ape to Gentleman and Life’d.

A man receives a straight razor shave at Chicago’s Belmont Barbershop. Image courtesy of The Belmont Barbershop.

Whether it’s a little scruff, or a full-on beard, there’s one rule of thumb every guy should know prior to executing a clean shave. Make sure you soften the hair before applying product or any type of blade. If you can’t get the pampered hot-towel treatment at a shop, the easiest way is with hot water, thus making for an efficient swipe once the blade passes a stroke. Details says it best, “shave in the shower or immediately after one. Steam is the key—it opens pores, which in turn causes whiskers to rise so they’re easier to lop off. If the bathroom mirror hasn’t fogged up, the shower isn’t hot enough.” Depending how deep of a regimen to follow next is up to the individual’s skin sensitivity and the amount of time one wants to spend. However, it’s always imperative you begin shaving with a well-cleansed face.

Petra van Roon, BARBER shop owner, carries Hudson Made’s Beard and Shave Soap and states, “Clients tend to go for products that have multiple functions, or products that stand out in function, and there aren’t many products like this on the market yet. Since we look out for the golden combination of the very highest quality ingredients combined with a pleasant smell and brand experience, the Beard and Shave Soap has been well-received by our clientele. It helps us give a fresh twist to the traditional barber profession.”

Hudson Made’s Beard & Shave Soap for sale at BARBER in Amsterdam. Image courtesy of BARBER.

Zijerveld states, “I love using the soap when I’m performing a shave on my clients because it gets the job done right with one application. Other products can dry out and you have to re-wet it, but the texture is perfect and it’s the only product I use for shaves in our shop.”

Above all, a good clean shave requires you to take your time and pay attention to the details. And that’s anything but barbaric.

Dale Pimentel is a fashion copywriter at Levi.com, and a residing native of San Francisco. He grew up as a hip-hop/backup dancer, with a degree in SF nightlife, and has more sneakers than one could fit in a NY-sized studio.

Related Post:
Reclaiming Men’s Vanity by Sloan Rollins

Upgrade your shaving routine with these products from Hudson Made.

The Beard & Shave Soap Trio	Patriot with Panache	Citron Neroli Beard & Shave Soap + Shave Mug

According to a report by Global Industry Analysts, Inc., the men’s grooming industry is expected to exceed $33.2 billion worldwide by 2015. Now more than ever, men have access to an enormous variety of cosmetic products that are designed to meet their specific needs.

As a result, there is a steadily increasing number of blogs and websites for men who perhaps aren’t quite as practiced in the art of personal vanity as their feminine counterparts.

The term “vanity” has been recalled as an injurious inclusion as a deadly sin or the implication that there is some inherent vapidity to maximizing one’s appearance. But it can also be reclaimed as the birthright of the male sex. One look at the animal kingdom and it’s obvious: males have plumage. No lioness ever had a mane and who ever heard of a decorative pea“hen” feather?

American frontiersmen Daniel Boone (left) and Davy Crockett (right) are among many figures who embody the rather narrow archetype of ‘rugged’ masculinity. Daniel Boone print by Charles Juehne, circa 1876; Davy Crockett engraving by C. Stuart from an original portrait by J.G. Chapman, circa 1839.

Throughout western culture, Americans have attached archetypal ideals to early icons of masculinity: Daniel Boone, Davey Crockett, and later John Wayne and Clint Eastwood. If there’s any footage of Dirty Harry trimming his beard, it’s surely on the cutting room floor. The worlds of fashion and media have played into these stereotypes and, on occasion, redefined them. The famous Calvin Klein ads of the 1980s featured a smooth and slick Antonio Sabàto, Jr. with nary a hair on his body besides his head.

For the average man though, the notion that anything beyond a shower, shave and occasional shampoo as less than manly still pervades our culture. In its series on archetypes of American masculinity, The Art of Manliness, a men’s lifestyle and grooming website, agrees: “men who seem too cultured, refined and style-conscious are sometimes dismissed as wimpy and not sufficiently masculine.”

The latest trends suggest that the pendulum is perhaps swinging in a well-coiffed direction. Perhaps shows like “Mad Men” are making an impact as well as the growing number of modern barbershops and artisan products geared toward the modern man. With all of this new grooming information coming from every direction, it can be difficult for a man to comb his way through the thicket of products, experts, must-do’s and no-no’s.

Barber, a shaving salon in Amsterdam that carries Hudson Made’s Beard & Shave Soap and Worker’s Soap, is an example of the growing number of modern barbershops. Image courtesy of Alexander Six.

Even those in the know occasionally disagree. In a casual conversation about shaving, Dan Heffer of burgeoning British blog Groom Him, says it is necessary to “exfoliate after shaving about once or twice a week to keep skin looking smooth and healthy.”

Meanwhile, John Scala, founder and CEO of the New York Shaving Company tells us that shaving and exfoliating on the same day is never a good idea. “Shaving is already exfoliating the skin,” Scala says. “More exfoliating would just cause damage.”

Bill Hovard, founder of Hudson Made and developer of our new line of Beard and Shave Soaps, says, “Grooming should be easy and appear effortless. Products should have multiple purposes, use the highest quality ingredients available (GMO free and organic whenever possible), be good to the body, and offer environmentally sensitive and locally sourced packaging.”

Hudson Made’s Beard and Shave Soap is safe for every face since it has no detergents or synthetic oils. And the beauty lies in its dual functionality: use the lather as a shaving foam or as gentle beard shampoo. If you’re one of those seasonally bearded fellows, this is a product that you can use year-round.

Hudson Made’s Beard & Shave Soap has multiple uses and is an invaluable addition to any man’s grooming routine.

Three original scents have been formulated: Original White is lightly scented with essential oils of petitgrain, cedarwood, juniper needle, myrrh and black pepper; Cedar Clove offers notes of woody spice derived from cedar leaf, cinnamon, allspice and clove; and Citron Neroli is blended with organic oils of petitgrain, white grapefruit, neroli and cedarwood. Neroli oil, produced from the delicate blossoms of the bitter orange tree, has been revered for its distinct balance of sweet, spicy and floral notes since the 17th century.

Citrus aurantium, also known as Citrus vulgaris—bitter orange tree. Illustration by Franz Eugen Köhler, 1897.

Ultimately, a man’s personal grooming regimen should be based on his own needs. No man knows better than himself as to how his skin reacts to products, how much time he’s got or how much bathroom counter space he’s willing to give up. In short, men’s grooming is subjective.

Perhap’s men’s facial hair is humanity’s answer to the lion’s mane and the peacock’s tail. Our plumage, as it were. So take good care of it. Hudson Made will help.

The Beard & Shave Soap Trio	Citron Neroli Beard & Shave Soap	Cedar Clove Beard & Shave Soap + Shave Mug

Sloan Rollins is a freelance writer. His work has been seen in Time Out New York, and he is a music and theater critic for edgeonthenet.com. sloanrollins.com

Additional contributions from Matthew Wexler. More of his musings can be found on his blog, roodeloo.com.